Palermo, the Sicilian capital, called the “Kingdom of the sun” by invading Normans in the 12th century, has been a cultural melting pot since Phoenicians and Greeks fought over it in the 5th and 6th centuries BC. Sitting close to where Europe ends and Africa begins, Palermo bears the scars – and echoes the glories – of centuries of domination. Once Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Norman and ultimately Italian – unified with the mainland only in 1861 – it has a relatively recent “made in Italy” identity. And in 2018 it basked under the banner of Italian Capital of Culture, hosting the prestigious Manifesta contemporary art biennale and helping regenerate its waterfront.

STREET FOOD BONANZA

Palermo is proud of its Arabic origins, going back to the 8th century, and its three main markets, Capo, Vucciria and Ballarò, are reminiscent of Arab souks. The abundance and variety of food, and their theatrical vendors, give Palermo’s markets a distinct attitude. Touring them can be a bit daunting, so try a street food tour with Streaty. The price includes a passaporto del mangione (glutton’s passport), a certificate awarded to those who manage to eat their way to the end of the tour. Rick Stein apparently did it.

PIAZZA PERFECTION

At the intersection of Via Maqueda and Corso Vittorio Emanuele is Piazza Vigliena, whose four baroque corners mark the centre of the historic quarter, locally known as Quattro Canti. Immediately south and east is grandiose Piazza Pretoria, also known as Piazza della Vergogna, the square of shame, for the thoroughly naked statues of nymphs, tritons and leaping river gods (senza veli, without veils) adorning the magnificent circular fountain in front of the Palazzo Pretorio (City Hall). In the streets around are stunning 12th-century churches, Arab-Norman Chiesa Santa Maria dell’ Ammiraglio, Chiesa Capitolare di San Cataldo with its distinct faded red domes, and the baroque 16th-century Chiesa di Santa Caterina.